yes, the day has arrived. we have set our feet back on solid ground in north america and our idyllic days in sweden have come to an end.
but do not despair pilgrims! i still have a couple of stockholm posts to share with you. let’s start with this cube of lemon cake. sour & sweet & moist.
with a rich cup of coffee.
at one of my favorite unexpected lunch spots in stockholm.
where you might pass your afternoon in leisure sketching the gilt mirrors, refilling your coffee cup, writing in your journal, spying on the other guests, or whatever else strikes your fancy.
citykonditoriet a cafeteria run by the adolf fredriks church down the street. promise me you will go and read every word on their website. you will be handsomely & humorously rewarded by the translations.
Both older and younger people find their way there because of the sober environment and the delicate atmosphere that prevails.
it really is the details that make all the difference.
the setting, a lavish building with plenty of gold gilding to go around, flocked wallpaper, heavy drapes, a small balcony, and lots of walkers (the kind with wheels). shabby chic never had it so good. so real.
oh you will be dining in fine company here!
stockholm’s elderly lunch set. the young man above was visiting with his grandmother (i presume).
not a tourist in sight.
except me.
i spent some time sketching this mirror while a young boy turned around in his chair and made exclamations about my progress in swedish. he kept turning to all the adults at his table and giving them loud progress reports, gesturing with his hands at which part of the mirror i was on, then turning back around to hang over the back of his chair. delightful.
there was a sign in the bathroom… where i fled after clattering my tray to the ground as i attempted to stack it in a perilously full cart. i think it says:
dumbshit, you have succeeded in making a nuisance of yourself. kindly take your bull-in-a-china-shop self out of this establishment asap. signed, the management.
naturally i took it down and put it in my purse. one of my swedish friends will kindly translate.
and of course i did manage to navigate my way through the ordering, pick-up, translation, and various other quirky aspects of visiting that required a guide. the girl working behind the counter kindly assisted me in all these intricacies. i used to be much more reserved about asking for help with such matters, but nowadays i just ask. nearly always here in stockholm people have generously explained things to me because while nearly everyone speaks english, it is not spoken casually. in fact you rarely hear it, unless you ask a question. signs & menus were often in swedish at the places i visited. trains & boats also dispatched information in swedish, but for the most part i like not knowing exactly what’s going on.
it’s the way i operate best. which might explain why i lost my bus pass twice. yeah. i only told you about the first time.
i do possess a mind like a steel trap and occasionally put it into use, but mostly i’m content to be a wandering fool.
here follows a photo of my apartment building (no. 2) and the bay window from which i conducted all blogging and travel journaling operations in week 3 of my trip.
the link to apartment no. 2 is HERE.
i am so glad i had the opportunity to stay in 2 different neighborhoods in 2 such different apartments. one thing i loved about no. 2 was watching and listening to the people walk up and down the hill. the location was fantastic.
the link to apartment no. 1 is HERE, and here is a photo of the outside of that building: i adored the mature trees and birdsong that were a constant here due to the balcony overlooking the park-like courtyard. the natural (and electrical) light was also fantastic and the furniture was super comfortable.
both places had really easy owners that made everything such a breeze. makes such a difference when the owners are prompt in responding to questions. i also find it very nice when the welcome note is pleasant in tone and not full of sour warnings about what NOT to do.
this secret park was discovered very close to monteliusvãgen. most people walk by the red fence and have no idea there’s a public park up here.
completely open, yet hidden from view a bit by gates.
behind each window a story. each a mystery to the other.
a city full of people, but where once can still find solitude.
and flowers that grow tall.
little pockets of quietness.
bearing fruit. and petals!
this is what i saw.
when i walked around my neighborhood on the last day.
always more more more around each corner.
propelled forward by curiosity.
what comes next?
anything seems possible.
Carina says
Ingrid is correct of course, but being Swedish American, I find the more direct translation amusing in its politeness.
“Pickpockets
We want you to enjoy refreshments with us, but ask you as well to carefully supervise planebags and purses.”
Karen S. says
I loved traveling with you, where are we going next?
susan w says
Your eye, Mary Ann! Your vision takes us into so many secret surprises.
Thank you thank you
Jet Hesselink says
Welcome home, and thank you for all the wonderful pictures and writings you gave to us!!
jacki long says
Wonderful post Mary Ann, one of my all time favorites and that takes some doing! Welcome home and thank you for YOU and your many talents!♥
Tina says
Thank you so much for taking us with you!! I have now bumped Sweden to the TOP of our travel bucket list, thanks to you!
– Tin
pam says
what a wonderful post!!!! and welcome home! xo
barbara says
Best trip ever MAM. I am swooning over those pinky/peach hollyhocks, along with every other fabulous thing in this post.
Mary Ann Moss says
hi jan,
i like VRBO because they don’t charge an additional fee to use, like airbnb does. BUT…in some locations like Stockholm there are very few VRBO that are located in the city of Stockholm, while airbnb has hundreds upon hundreds. maybe thousands! so… i use airbnb when i can’t use VRBO.
Carol Kitchell says
Beautiful and atmospheric, as always, and very funny! Welcome home, Mary
Ann!
bobbie says
Welcome home! I’ve enjoyed your trip immensely; thanks for sharing so much of it with us ~
Maureen says
Ah with my gray hair I’ll fit right in at the Konditoriet. 🙂 What a marvelous post of life in Stockholm. I’m almost ready to get on a plane. Yes, I too feel like heading off to Ikea for a fix of Sweden!
Carla Dixon says
This journal about your trip is fabulous! You should publish it, just as is with all your wonderful descriptions and photos. Love it!
Susie LaFond says
You are such an awesome weaver of stories Mary Ann. Your ‘re-tales’ of your escapades is delightful as are all the views. You have a way of finding the most charming places to hang your hat when you travel. I’m going to miss swinging by to hear where your trusty feet have taken you but I’m also happy dancin’ that you’ve arrived home safe and sound. I’ll be just around the corner waiting for the next tale to be shared.
Michele R. Unger says
Ah…..lovely. So happy your trip was such a rousing success and that you had fun, and quiet, and beauty! I think you ate pretty darn well, too!
Welcome home.
XO
Jan says
Again, thank you for taking us along. I notice you used Airbnb – how would you compare that with VRBO? Welcome home!
Jane B. says
I have so enjoyed the breath of Swedish air for the last three weeks; have definitely put it on my personal travel list. For the meantime, I’ll visit Ikea and pronounce the words. (Not too sure that ‘fixiit’ which is, i believe, their tool assortment, is really Swedish of course.) Glad you made it home and wishing you sweet dreams of all those flowers.
Shar Ulm says
You funny!
Ingrid Petrini says
The sign says “beware of thiefs” , keep an eye on your belongings.
You really caught the best time to visit beautiful Stockholm, summertime when the people have left for holiday and only tourists in town. As you avoided the tourist traps you were THE WINNER.
Lovely post