before i leave ingrid’s island in the skagerrak sea behind, i present a few small photos of things i noticed in her house. (by the way she tells me she will be blogging on a more regular basis. good news for those of us who will need a regular swedish fix.!)
when i mentioned ingrid’s menfolk i wasn’t just referring to moppa & jonas.
there is also ted, her 19 year old son. on this day he delivered us to strömstad so that we could catch a ferry out to the koster islands. they sit about 45 minutes away towards the west and into the archipelago of tiny islands that dot this western swedish seascape.
the day was bright with sun.
and most tilted their faces towards its warmth.
not me!
have hat will travel.
there are 2 main islands north and south koster. we headed for south, the larger of the 2, and got off at långagärde in the strait that narrowly runs between both islands. there are many small fishing villages here and there and almost no cars.
everyone gets around by bicycle, foot, or boat.
we chose to walk and headed off down packed dirt roads that criss cross the island.
we didn’t get very far because i had to keep stopping to stare at everything.
we didn’t walk more than a mile before we reached kosters trädgårdar, organic gardens where one might enjoy a slow cup of coffee, or in my case sparkling water on tap (!) served in a lovely bottle.
and as a bonus i met ingrid’s fresh-faced niece who works in the garden restaurant when she’s home from college.
meet bella. a charming young woman who served us cake with flowers on top. and fresh cream.
the gardens were idyllic. and there were chickens. and little blonde boys sitting at a table by themselves.
we lingered.
until it was time to wind our way back to the harbor.
we had a few hours to absorb the island’s atmosphere before we caught the ferry home.
the epitome of slow travel. nowhere to rush off to. no sense of urgency to see every single thing on every part of the island.
and there was a consignment store where i got some handmade gifts for myself and my sisters.
naturally ingrid knew one of the women working and stopped for a chat.
when we got back to strömstad there was ted to collect us. he knows how to drive fast with no hands! this does not please ingrid, but it delighted and pleased me. listen, there is not much about ted that is not delightful. ( i’ll leave you to sort out that double negative!) he is a thoughtful interesting young man who is keen on the idea of visiting los angeles to explore the skating/surfing scene. he told me that many young swedes have dreams of traveling to LA. who knew?
in the meantime he rows the little boat over to the mainland early each morning, then rides his bike on a windy path into strömstad, where he works at a food store selling, as he put it, “chickens and ribs to crazy norwegians.” ha ha ha!!!
while ted made a quick detour ingrid chatted with another of the townfolk we saw on the dock.
all too soon it was time for more eating. crayfish!
jonas schooled me on the proper technique. i watched and listened. there was fresh baked bread to dunk in the buttery juice. oy!
on my very last day on the island, jonas prepared a “very swedish” lunch of sill. this is a typical meal eaten at midsummer’s eve in sweden. that plate of goodness above, my friends is matjesill (soused herring) raw herring in a sweet preserving liquid. there are many varieties. the matjesill we had did not taste vinegary like pickled herring i’ve tried in the states. we ate it with boiled potatoes, chopped chives, sour cream, and of course crisp bread. which is what is inside that large decorative wooden box.
but what’s in the bottle?
it’s a very strong distinctive tasting spirit that is best drunk cold in tiny beautiful shot glasses.
and there’s a proper way to do it. jonas instructed me. a quick sip, then a swallow of cold beer. according to him all of these flavors in our lunch belong together and none should be omitted. you don’t argue with swedish tradition people!
the herring was sweet and smoky. it was delicious! the aquavit i could live without.
the island & house was gorgeous, but really it was the people (and dog!) who made it a standout experience for me. a small slice of swedish life i will carry with me.
love from sweden my friends. thanks for popping in to see my latest dispatch.
next post we leave the island and head back to stockholm!
IF they have one of those GIANT butter dishes that says “BUTTAHHHH,” could you please bring it back for me?! I’ll reimburse you in scones. That is one crazy big butter dish! I love the Swedish spirit. Happy trails!
Absolutely everything we’ve laid eyes on is beautiful.. the sea, the sky, the air, the houses, food, dishes….etc. Oh and the people, those beautiful people. I feel refreshed by this wonderful journey. xo
breathless……..
What a beautiful visit… Memorable!
This whole experience has been like a little novella for us all. Again thanks! btw – At first, I thought the building on the bay said “Bad Training Spa” and had a really good laugh.
Another wonderful post. What delightful people you have stayed with. AND the dog. My two Havanesse pups are thrilled that you like the dog.
I am so pleased you are sharing these stories with us Mary Ann, I am day dreaming and wishing myself on the island. About an hour ago I was sitting in the cafe at our local Ikea and couldn’t help but wonder where you might be and what you might be seeing. I know Ikea is a far, far cry from your magical escapades but I still lifted a glass to you as we looked out the big window into a cloud studded sky, jets from the very near by airport flew in for landing and I thought how wonderful it would be jetting off to Sweden and following your delightful lead.
Another day of joy filled adventure in Sweden. The food (except Aquivit) sounds delicious. I love pickled herring in sour cream with a flat hard cracker. It’s now very hard to find in the local markets.
So it’s back to Stockholm, then what?
I’m sharing these posts with a friend and we’re both enjoying them. For her, it’s a bit like reliving the trip she and her husband has to Sweden last month. Staying with friends and cherishing that quiet way of living.
You travel the way I liked to travel…with a native so to meet other natives and glimpse into their lives. No tour guides, please.
Your posts should be an inspiration for anyone who wants to travel and see the world. I mean…REALLY see it, not just the stuff a tour guide thinks is worth seeing. A slice of life from people who live that life is definitely the way to go if you want too see and understand their lives and culture.
We have used Rick Steves’ books when we went to Italy and to France and the message he repeats over and over is to learn some of the language and interact with the locals. There are opportunities for that even if you don’t have a full immersion in the lifestyle like you are having in Sweden. I know you will never forget the people and places you’ve been on this journey and I dare say, you have given your readers plenty of incentive and inspiration to consider Sweden for their Travel Bucket List! Thanks, MAM, and enjoy the rest of your time in lovely Sweden. ?
Great photos. Arent u drawing them!? I even drew my coffee cup this am lol. Of course it as the first cup of coffee I ever bought so needed memorializing. Lol.
How beautiful this spot is! How fortunate that you could be there with Ingrid and family. Thanks for the look inside for all of your followers, Mary Ann.
What a GREAT experience…. the best way to travel is being able to see a bit into the lives of the people who actually live there. What a treat!
I just discovered that Ingrid is a friend of my friend John! They are in round robin journals with each other. They did an amazing art journal featuring barns. Ingrid did a lot of embroidery on her spreads and her work is awesome (as is John’s). Small world, eh?
Aquavit grows on you. Really. It does. I learned to love it at the table of my good Norwegian friends. Scary but true!
Continue to have a wonderful time. All that food is killing me!!!!
XO
Thank you so much for traveling the world and taking us along! This is a delightful trip.
Your slow travels make my day something very special.
Is a pleasure to see your photo traveling and read all your stories .I love every word …is so fun the details that surprise you. Every day I wait for your new post, your photos and something about for your fabulous “anfitriona ” Always you make me smile!
“WOW” from me too! I have very much enjoyed our visit with Ingrid on her beautiful island, thanks for taking us along with you on this latest excursion. Although I had to laugh at the building with “Bad-Training-Spa” written on it, not sure I’d want to visit there!? 😉
Maryann, these posts are so heart-warming and soul nourishing. Thanks for sharing. Did I mention the beautiful photography?
Oh, our stay on the Island has been so sweet.
All I can say is, “WOW!”