i’m sitting here on my porch overlooking the lake of volcanoes.
this post will be longer than most because there is so very much to tell, and for those planning their own journey to guatemala you may find it of interest.
village life. as seen from the shuttle to lago de atitlan. for part of the way we rode along the panamerican highway that runs throughout central america. then elmer (el.mer in espanol) turned off onto smaller roads as we made our way up into the green glory of the sierra madres.
for the first 3/4 of the 2 hour/47 mile trip, the road was very nicely paved, nary a bump. for the last part the road shrank considerably, grew bumpier, and became even more curvy. muy curvy.
as my reliefbandwatchthingy that emitted electrical currents into my wrist was working splendidly (!) i found the journey to be quite thrilling and beautiful.
susan s. i have YOU to thank for telling me about the RB. motion sickness has been a major thorn in my side all of my life. now i feel such a sense of freedom!
and while we passed many chicken busses i was thankful i was not inside of one. in fact i was elmer’s only passenger, this because the owner of the lakeside retreat i rented provided this service rather inexpensively.
door to door service as it were. i enjoyed chatting with elmer. he lives in a small village around the lake and his native language is kaqchikel, which he speaks at home with his wife and 2 children (who are learning spanish in school).
along the way he pointed out things he thought would interest me, like this cemetery on the hillside.
he also drove through 2 very interesting indigenous markets and stopped at 2 different miradoros so that i could take photos of the lake. the entire area is a lush forest teeming with life. 
Nearly 800 known species of plants and trees exist here around the lake and the elevation is 5200 feet mas o menos. some of the trees include oak, cedar, pine, avocado, jocote, kapok, wild fig, acacia, alder. 
my favorite is arbol de fuego!
a magnificent tree with large orange-red blossoms.
eventually we wound our way past panajachel – the largest of the villages that ring the lake – and made our way to here:
peña de oro , a small hillside which sits in between pana & santa catarina palopo. quiet and out of the fray. just what i wanted. it is a “gated” community. by that i mean a flimsy bamboo gate discourages crawling babies or tiny kittens from gaining entry. there are 4 other homes here. the one below me occupied by a local guatemalan family.
a most pleasant young man, gabriel, met me at the top and escorted me down the stone steps and pathway. his mother is swiss and his father guatemalan. they met 30 years ago while mom was on a backpacking trip and they’ve been here ever since.
and now…finally…what you’ve been waiting for. a little tour of my lakeside digs. it resembles a bit of a shack on the outside, but the inside. ay yi yi!
there is a view from every window. i have access to the lake. and there is a hammock. best of all there is a VERY secure lock on the door.
but since i’m in a “gated” community i don’t concern myself with security.
this brugmansia tree perfumes my bedroom and the entire deck at night.
should i need to go into town, which i’ve already done, juan is just a phone call away.
i tried very hard not to clap my hands and bark the entire ride to the village.
and. as if all of that weren’t enough.
on my last night in antigua i was out star gazing on the balcony when i saw vulcan de fuego gently erupting. orange plumes rising a bit into the air, a bit of lightening around the cone, and occasionally the entire upper portion of the cone glowed. keep in mind i was 6 miles away, but it was other worldly. it’s currently in an active phase – in february the eruption was quite strong and showered antigua with ash and caused the airport in guatamala city to close for a bit.
that’s it for now! i’ve got villages to explore, pictures to draw & color, and salt-encrusted black bass that’s being prepared for my dinner tonight. $25 to have someone come and cook. whaaa?!
also.
i. swam. in. the. lake. this. morning.
IN MY UNDERPANTS. true story.
girl reporter sending love from guatemala. xo.
Thank you for showing us places we many never get to. So enjoyable, smiling the whole time while reading it.
Oh Mary Ann! I can’t wait to see your sketches from this glorious place. I also wonder how in the WORLD you find such amazing places to stay? Unbelievable. What a contrast to the gorgeous place you stayed in Sweden Both amazingly beautiful, but different. Thank you for posting so regularly and with such beauty and humor!
Oh my goodness – what an awesome amazing & incredible adventure!! Your photos are beautiful.
You are brave and fearless
with love from Africa
Wow and thank you!
You find the BEST places to stay!! Lago de Atitlan: Lago de Como, Latin American version! Enjoy your fab trip. xo
well, if you ever get tired of journal/art/sketchbook blogging I would recommend you seriously consider a career in travel reporting. Your trip reports are so much more real and fun than some of the books I pay good money for!!!!!!! I have based two of my trips on your reports – Venice and Amsterdam with surrounds. Both a rip roaring success!!!! Maybe Guatemala is next? What I like about your writing is that it gives a real feeling of what the place is like. Plus you find the best places to go and stay. How by the way???? My Amsterdam trip was so easy, I just said to my husband “we need to go here, here and here in the countryside” and he replied “how do you know about these places???”. I smiled mysteriously and mumbled something about hours of research. I may do the same here with your trip about Guatemala. Stunning, alive, inviting. Brimming! Just with LIFE. I can’t say it in any other way. Maybe because you’re an artist you SEE things, you see colour and beauty and interest in a way that’s very different from a guide book writer. Your photos therefore convey everything in a second. I am in awe.
Wow. One excellent shot after another. What a cool place What a view………………. So glad your wristthingie is working!!!!!!
One of my favorite of these (so hard to choose!) is the reflection of plants, lake, mountains on your bedroom window…………………
Adventuring with you, in spirit. Thank you!!!!!! for taking us along!
Oh the volcano was showing off just for you!! You are definitely an intrepid girl reporter!! I adore the photo of the Guatamalan women in their beautiful clothing with the pig on the leash!!
Grinning from ear to ear, so much fun Mary Ann! You’re the best to take us all along with you on your grand adventures. Can’t wait for your next installment of Girl Reporter, Hot on the Trail: Escapades and tales of derring do!
Oh My! You are having a brilliant time. Fab shot of the volcano – fire coming forth! Such beautiful textiles .. the ladies in your shot look so colourful and the pig! What can I say … love the pig .. so typical. Actually, most of Mexico has become so civilized I miss the little brown pigs and chickens running around. You are in a beautiful part of the world .. looking forward to your next report. Enjoy the moment.
Speechless. Divinely speechless. Swim out there and touch that golden sky!
You are my hero…. so very adventurous and I’m over the moon hearing and seeing your “investigations”. Thank You for the updates and reports!!!
Mary Ann,
I haven’t been in Atitlan in 30 years, I am so happy to hear that you are enjoying my beautiful country which I miss so much. There is so much natural beauty to see. I read your posts and send them to my sister -who lives in Guatemala City because it is fascinating to us to hear wonderful people like you love our Guatemala. Enjoy , be safe!
MaryAnn, I hope every day is as wonderful as this first part of your Guatemalan adventure has been. You tell your story, so it comes alive for your listeners. Thank you for sharing with us.
Oh I Swear! Your posts just fill me with glee! You are definitely a brave girl reporter and we are so lucky to be living vicariously through you. Great eye for the wonderful details that keep me wanting to scroll quickly to the next pic but wanting to go slow to make them last. Then back to the top to look through each photo in case I missed something. You are just a Treat! Thanks so much for putting a big smile on my face…on all our faces…with every delicious post! Can’t wait for the next chapter. ~Still grinning~
Mary Ann, please let me know about the wrist thingie you referred to and how I can get one! I am very prone to motion sickness too, especially in buses on bumpy, curvy roads (had a very miserable 4 hour ride like that in Brazil last year 🙁 ). Would appreciate info greatly! Tina (dot) K (at) Juno (dot) com. Thanks! !
Divine. Thank you!
xxxj
Oh. my. GOSH!! FABULOUS adventure, glorious views & awesome house!! Thank you for letting us all “live” it vicariously through you!!
You are the best ever girl reporter, and photographer. Brave and gutsy too. So glad I know you!
Loving these posts! My niece visited Antiqua twice in one year (about five years ago) for Day of the Dead week and Easter week. A single Day of the Dead picture featured giant kites, a woman playing a harp among the families celebrating in the cemetery. She also went on a tour where they roasted marshmallow over a volcano vent! (Ay-yi-yi, one of those things you’re glad you didn’t know about in advance!) For Easter week she spent a lot of time with locals helping with Easter preparations. Looking forward to the next dispatches! I hope you’re buying some of the local textiles!
A splendid dispatch!
You GO, girl! Love your stories from the road and you oh-so-adventurous spirit! I am in San Miguel de Allende having adventures of my own. Sending hugs from here to there.
XO
My favorite parts- the volcanoes with their 90 degree rise from the lake, your 360 degree view from your Anderson, premium secure windows, “Jesus” on the Hershey’s kiss of a red car/truck/pimple , but without doubt your “voice” and your endearingly childlike glee that radiates from this post.
I can’t even imagine the idea of such surroundings…truly beautiful!
What has struck me most about your latest foray are the photos of the women. All clothed in skirts or dresses made of the most wonderfully patterned/colorful fabrics. Is that their daily attire??!!
Me…the woman that hasn’t worn a dress since forever and tends to reach for black tops and jeans. I’m all about the casual comfort look…but by golly they make me want to spice up my wardrobe with color!
Thanks again for bringing me along on your journey…your posts are always a joy!!
Am consumed with envy..and so happy that you are there to enjoy this.What is it about travel /art blogging?A ahammock overlooking a lake and someone cooking dinner.Sigh.. Enjoy and I cant wait to see hear more.ps love that lock too..
Wow my first thought when I saw all those girls waiting for a bus ,I thought Worry Dolls lol that’s what they reminded me of…..art imitates life…great pics and story , you rode in a Jesus mobile lol so cool and glad you resisted the clapping and barking ,you must be a lady at all times lol I love the kitchen it’s nicer and more colourful than mine and to have a chef is one of my dreams ….oh and hope you wore your frilly undies in the lake hehe
We lovingly call it The Barf Watch. It’s freaking amazing isn’t it. I think I told you that it has made my life so comfy on boats that I’ve jumped in the drink with it on. Boo-expensive to replace.
I’m so delighted to see the pics of those lovely women in their beautiful clothes. It hurts your eyes they’re so beautiful and their sweetness makes your soul soar. Lucky you.
Freaking COLD water-can’t believe you braved that!
x
susan, the water was absolutely warm and divine. lukewarm bathwater. seriously. it was practically boiling compared to the frigid skaggerack sea in sweden. haven’t researched but maybe there is some thermal activity going on somewhere under the surface that keeps it so perfectly regulated…?
thanks again for the “barf watch” rec. i am SOLD
So so happy to be receiving these post again after an absence!
Very beautiful photos that bring back fond memories of a young backpacking couple( myself and hub) on those very shores some 38 years ago…
Mostly I like the image of you swimming in undies. You brave girl!
You did IT??????
Respect
Excellent…I do love that lock but as you have Jesus 70 with you why worry?!?!? You note the underpants but no top to that ‘bikini’. That’s close to a beach in the Netherlands. This trip is truly an adventure, even without the chicken bus. Play on!
holy catfish!! active volcanoes! underpant swimming! that jalopy-car-thingy!! You are–for serious–intrepid. Keep up the great work! Post, nap, draw, sleep, nibble, swim, repeat.
Intrepid Girl Reporter! you make me laugh every post. Great post, pictures and an excellent adventure. BTW why did you wear the panties, no washer?
lori,
i would have gone nude but there were workman at a house up the path. so i kept my unders and a tank top on. don’t want to offend the locals. i wasn’t going to go in at all, but i thought of what my sister dottie had told me the day before when i told her i didn’t have a bathing suit. “get in in all your clothes if you have to, BUT GET IN!” so i did!
Glorious! I am enthralled with it all. I love the colors, the scenery and most of all a glowing volcano! But, oh, how marvelous to swim in almost all together. That I really like!
I LOVE reading about your experiences and ADORE the photos.You are amazing and inspiring!
You always find the most delicious places to stay!! I’m loving all your pix and your travel stories; thanks so much for sharing with us!!
As always it is with great pleasure that I read about your adventures. I learn a lot AND and it is so nice to hear of someone being happy and having a great time. I am always amazed at the houses or flats you stay in, especially the ones overlooking the sea. Many thanks for sharing.
Fabulous photos. Thanks for sharing your Guatamalan experience with us. Be sure and share some photos of the salt-baked fish. It’s one of my favorites when we’re on the beach in Spain and know what a special treat it is. Enjoy.
In your undies ! You go girl. What a fun time you are having. I grinned all the way through this post. Thanks girl reporter, another “you made my day” star for you.
You are intrepid (swimming in that huge lake under an active volcano!) indeed and a v. good reporter to boot. Thanks so much for sharing your adventures with us!
xoxo
I’m in awe, I knew I would be. Your ‘shacks’ kitchen looks quite a bit cozier than my own and that deck view….I don’t think I’d leave it, unless I had to to…I’m getting excited for in about 3 weeks we are headed to our favorite northern Mn getaway on the shore of Lake Superior. We’ll be in a very cozy 2 story vacation rental, with deck on the lake, fireplace, and pretty much every delight we could want. Every photo you’ve shared is getting me more and more amped up. I am such a water gal, ocean, lake, pond, puddle, if the view includes one of those and the air is filled with the sound of rippling waters or cascading waves, that is all I need to be happy and content. One of the wee perks of this place is the whirl pool and heated pool that sit almost on the shore of the lake and that is open year round, which means one can swim when it’s snowing so long as the temp is above zero, both are open. It’s geothermally heated which is very cool. Last year while looking up at an ocean of stars, with a light snow falling, I floated in delightfully warm water and all the while was surrounded by the sounds of the lake pounding the shore. If one is really fortunate you may be treated to the northern lights. I can only imagine your swim was as sweet a moment for you, volcanoes keeping out a watchful eye on you. The rental we are staying at has all been created in the spirit of the natural beauty so unless you know it’s there, no one else would. Your volcano experience sounds AMAZING. That is just so so cool Mary Ann. Thank you for taking time to share all of this. You are the bestest tour guide ever!!! 🙂
Stunning. I cannot wait to hear more about this stage of your journey.
Sooperdeedoopery exciting. The glowing volcano, the musky bruggmansia,
The beautiful tiled stove/oven, above all the views from every window.
If one is lucky enough to travel, staying in private rentals of local residents
Is such an view of our friends in faraway places.
So happy to see your glowing face and grateful for your reporting. XX
Best. Post. Ever. You made me laugh at your description of the security gate and door lock. Bwahaha! “Crawling babies and tiny kittens”. Hysterical! And is that a chopstick in the door lock? Love the selfie, which shows a very happy and well rested artiste on a lark. Proud of you for swimming in the lake in your skivvies. LOVE that kitchen…so warm and welcoming. And that VIEW! I did kinda feel sad for the little piggie going to market. I am an old softie about animals, but a realist also. People eat animals, therefore they must go to market…but he just looked so clueless about his fate. I guess that’s the best way to be. So glad that the volcano dutifully spewed for you! Can’t wait for more from MAM.
Wow! Just wow!
Dear Intrepid Girl Reporter –
Excellent report filed and most excellent photojournalism. Above and beyond duty to get so close to active volcano and swim in lake. Good work. Look forward to illustrations. Also, must reveal source of anti-motion-sickness thingee.
xo Armchair Traveler
Oh, MaryAnn…STUNNING!
I love every bit of this stunningly narrated adventure! xox
Whoa!!! Thank you for the Glorious photos!!! Glad you got in for a swim! Can’t wait to meet up with you~Thursday!
Oh I am so happy for you Mary Ann!
I can feel your joy and excitement, and I ahre it thanks to you.
Can hardly wait for the next dose.