I went to a museum today. When I got home I uploaded pics and noticed that Franz Blom’s member card was renewed the year I was born. This was Thing 1 that excited me.
Thing 2 was sinking into LIVING MAYA during my mid-day siesta and becoming so engrossed, so deeply riveted by all I was reading. So much so that I didn’t even notice that just outside on my terrace a thick carpet of pine needles were being carefully spread over every square inch of floor. When i came-to and stepped outside I felt like a kid who sees snow for the first time. I walked over the pine needles in a trance. And that was Thing 3.
But back to Thing 2: Here is what I read…a bit of history quoted liberally (nearly entirely) from LIVING MAYA by Walter F. Morris, Jr.
The Highlands of Chiapas rise sharp and isolate above the tropics. At night the stars shine close and cold, and at dawn fog surrounds the sacred mountains and steep cornfields. As the sun rises, the volcanic peaks loom above the clouds like islands dreaming of the sea.
Within each mountain dwells an earthlord, the mythical being who directs the clouds, the rain, and the riches of the earth.
Just below the summit of MOSS mountain, the most sacred mountain of the Highlands, three cross shrines mark the entrance to three small caves. Crosses are gateways to the earthlord’s underworld domain. The shrines are to the Holy Ancestors who are the supernatural elders of each community. They watch over their people, punishing those who deviate from tradition, and teach shamans how to restore the well-being of lost souls.
When the Spanish entered the scene in the 16th century the Maya in this region were at war with the Chipanec. The Maya joined the Spaniards to defeat their enemies. Once the Spanish conquered the Chipanec however, and renamed the province of Chiapas after them, they marched up to the Highlands and promptly enslaved the Maya.
Chiapas history might have followed the same tragic path as the rest of Latin America had it not been for the intervention of the remarkable first bishop of Chiapas, Fray Bartolome de Las Casas. He convinced the Spanish king to free the Chiapas Maya, ban the conquistadores from Maya lands, and permit the Dominicans to convert the Maya peacefully to the True Faith. It was a noble experiment that succeeded in protecting the Maya of this region from some of the worst abuses of the conquest while convincing them to adopt the Catholic religions as their own. Ironically, Chiapas Maya Catholicism retains the music, pageantry, and devotional rites introduced in the 16th century. Many of the rituals and beliefs that appear most exotic to observers are actually customs that were practiced 400 years ago in Spain!
Thing 4 was going to the Na Bolom Museum which is where all the photos in this post were born.
You’ll excuse my unbridled enthusiasm. It really cannot be helped.
Sent from my iPad
Violet, me again, I took another look and I think the date on the little card in the lower left hand corner is the year to which Miss Moss was refering….which leads me to believe
she may have found that fountain.
Violet, you are so cute. Unless Miss Moss, on one of her many excursions, has found the Fountain of Youth or Ponce’s journal there is no way she was born in the 20’s.
Did you buy any iron at the NaBolom? I could have brought home a ton of it, if they didn’t charge extry for the shitcase weight. Feliz Navidad, dearest one. Your posts are making my couch ridin’ alternately wistful and elated.
Mitzi,
I have had several people tell me about kiki. i went by her gallery store the other day. it is filled with all of her beautiful whimsical art! her shop sits on a corner. i will try and remember to take a pic and post it. Some nice young women were working in the store both times ive popped in.
i also went to her blog and enjoyed that very very much. she is a great storyteller. i especially liked the one about the SHOES.
Hi Mary Ann, Christine sent me your blog address.
Have you met Kiki? Her galeria is on Hildago, El Corazon Abierto, along with restuarant La Paloma. She has a blog–you could google her. She’s really nice ….very talented, colorful work. I’ve spent alot of time in Sn Cris but most I have lived in Oaxaca. I met Chip years ago–in the 80’s. He helped start Sna Jolobil. He’s on FB.
Hope it is warmer there than usual…..Happy holidays…..Mitzi Linn
Dear Mary Ann – I have just spent the most mesmerizing half an hour reading of your travels and adventures in Chiapas. Wonderul. Marvelous. Such beauty in the handmade wonders. The people. The history. Sigh….. With you in spirit, as always. I hope you have a wonderful Christmas there…can’t really imagine anywhere better! xoxo fran p.s. I’m more than annoyed with Typepad for the iPad and I am very impressed with your posts. They really need to get their act together. There is so little functionality! And duh…when do you want to use Typepad the MOST? When you travel. On your iPad. I have been checking out many of the apps that you and your legions of fans have been posting in the comments sections – VERY helpful! Love the of community of vagabonds!!
Were you really born in 1924?????
Oh mary ann this is so much fun……I always feel a huge connection to something in my past when i go to mexico and you are keeping it alive for me.
On my last trip to San Cristobal Chip Morris was our guide. when he took us to the villages he spoke in the native tongue and was invited into so many homes. love that book. Did you know the Mayans were not allowed to live within the city of san cristobal until about 30 years ago???
I’ll be in touch.
I love the pictures and stories that you are sharing! My mom is from Mexico and I try and go every other year. I feel a connection just by looking at your beautiful pictures and reading the stories. Thanks!
Moss mountain? Seriously? That is so cool!
That was a mouthful Mary Ann. Your excitement and awe have reached me all the way in MN. I could feel the little hairs at the back of my neck stand up on end, shivers, tingle and the deep sense that you are some place truly special. You were meant to be where you are right now and just knowing that gives me hope that no matter what can happen in one’s life that certain moments are already written for us, we just have to get off our keesters and
pay attention to the signs and to follow them…that part requires trust that no matter where we end up and footing is sure and true. You are where you are supposed to be. I know nothing gets by you no matter how small, insignificant or grand.
Bliss. You have been caught in the magic. How wonderful. Donna