when i travel i become a complete night owl. for example right now it's nearly 1 am and i'm wide away having just finished working in my travel journal. in the light of the early evening i sat out on the balcony and wrote everything i could remember about my day.
about attending the hungarian festival of folk art up on castle hill.
about wandering the cobbled paths snaking over the castle grounds. booth after booth of master craftspeople from craft unions, craft schools, and guilds all over the carpathian basin.
hungary of course, but also special guests from lithuania, latvia, and estonia. oh eastern europe where have you been all my life?
the festival towered over the banks of the blue danube. i kept going over to the palace walls and gazing off into the distance. at the water and bridges. at the city sprawled over the hills.
i kept wanting to slap someone or myself and say, "can you believe this?! isn't it awesome?" because you know, really really…it WAS.
every crafty second of it.
there were lace makers, embroiders, woodworkers, felters. so so many craftspeople. and there were workshops where they eagerly taught their skills to anyone who was interested in learning and trying.
i felt my journey to budapest deepening
growing richer.
this sweet man patiently showed me how to use the 2 handmade whistles i bought from him. i'm going to be sort of annoying to be around for awhile LA friends. just sayin'
i really want you to come to budapest. it's so magnificent. some of you need no encouragement, but some of you might be nervous or timid. it's YOU i want to encourage. i will send you a special badge of courage to sew onto your shirt.
don't be afraid of getting lost, or not knowing the language. it's okay to be lost. someone will set you back on the right track. someone else will hear you struggle with words and will jump in to help. you will feel brave, wonderous, alive.
you might be rescued.
today a stout white-haired hungarian woman put a lightening-fast steel grip on my upper arm and yanked me back from the tram tracks! I had absent-mindedly started to cross with a tram 20 feet away. i must have been thinking about cream cakes.
there was strudel. every kind you can imagine and some you can't.
dough rolled onto hot irons and turned over the coals. then taken out and rolled in cinnamon & sugar and other things.
and beer. lots of beer. i want!
and of course i was ravenous and needed a big half circle of sausage and scoop of mustard to go with. each succulent bite better than the last. i stood up at a tall table to eat.
i kept roaming. bought some great gifts and a few things for myself. the prices were unbelievable and the quality impeccable.
found this drawstring bag the perfect size for my travel journal. those are my whistles on top.
i meandered down the hill. jumped on a bus that magically landed me at the exact right bridge to catch the tramline home. and this time i didn't stray onto the tracks. my sister arrives in the morning! i'm leaving the apartment extra early to walk to get hot fresh strudel that comes highly recommended. will have coffee & strudel all set up on the balcony table when carol arrives!
I am a Hungarian living in Budapest and I simply cannot leave here without saying THANK YOU for your beautiful words and photos of my home town:)) I am sitting here with tears pouring down my cheek but my heart filled with joy:) At such difficult times when so many of us in our 30’s are looking for jobs and a better life away from home, in another country, You reminded me of many things why we love this land:)You must be an amazing person, I am happy to have found your blog! Next time you are here I would love to show you around some more:)
So glad you survived the tram! Your trip is so inspiring and the pictures are breathtaking (and I want ALL of those pastries, thank you)… it sounds like you were totally energized, head to soul. I’ll definitely put Eastern Europe on my bucket list 🙂 (I hate the term bucket list… someone needs to come up with a new one! hehe)
Love all the crafts, especially the felting. Love the view from the castle. Love all the food you have shown us…..
Budapest through your eyes is definitely amazing!
From your very first post about this trip I wanted to go to Budapest. Now I am more convinced than ever. Wish I were there with you. Your sister is so lucky!
I couldn’t wait to click on tonight…..and join you in Budapest, cream cakes, yes please, Did sister arrive and delight in studel?, your busy getting her caught up or down, as it were. to local speed, I love your being true to your pace and assmilatinng to the culture. As soon as you start sign up’s for Maryann’ss travel adventures. I’m there.
PS I’m A, O.K. with sleeping in and journalling into the wee hours
ox
steph
OK … remember the other day when … you know … you remember … ha ha ha ha. It’s time to tell them. Missing some of your strudel? .. haha I gotta eat somewhere. Donna
Oh, me too! That pale blue bag – please tell me you bought this one too…I am loving this trip you are on, loving the faces of the people you are meeting (such alive and vibrant faces!), loving that food….bravo! You make me want to go to Budapest…
It’s really funny that you went to Budapest and drank Gösser beer which comes from my home town Leoben in Styria/Austria. I’d expected to find some Budweiser there… But anyways, it’s good to start off with the best beer 🙂
Seems like you discovered some really nice places there and enjoyed yourself. It’s always interesting to see how people perceive the “old world” 😉
I did that exact same fair at the Castle in 2003 and your pictures brought it all back so vividly! You will really have fun once Carol arrives, given that you now know your way around and can play guide! Have you visited the Opera yet?
How can it get any better than this. Public transportation to a craft fair that serves beer and brats — fess up, you bought more than a bag and a couple of whistles. I adore the flying peasant women, what are those for — little tea cozies for your cup of tea? And, the whistle maker dressed in traditional garb with a smokin’ mustache, how cute is that! I want, want, want the felted purses, almost enough to google “felting” and try it myself, almost. Jess have to ask, are you planking? If so, can’t wait to see you and SISTER’s poses. I usually plank about 11 p.m. every night on my bed. Looking forward to more lovely pics and musings. Hopping off now for tea with my Mad Hatter.
Thank you for taking the time to share such amazing details of your trip. It is so much fun to follow along and I can’t wait to see what you will show us next. As a teacher who is back to work this week, living vicariously through your travels is especially enjoyable. Thanks again!
OK, now I’m going to have to get out my photos of our Budapest trip…only 3 days (WAY TOO SHORT!)at the beginning of a Danube river cruise that was supposed to be a week long. On the 4th day the river flooded
and we were bused to the different ports. It was last year and I have wonderful memories! Ahhh, lovely
Budapest…I want to go back now more than ever! The people, food, beer and the whole atmosphere!
Thanks for the bringing it all back again…enjoy…and watch out for those tracks!
Such fun! I gave my sister your blog address bcause she was in Budapest not long ago and LOVED it. She brought me all kinds of goodies. YIPEE! Right now, I’m just sending a silent thank you to the lady who pulled you away from the tracks!!
what a magnificent day; the pic of the castle and the river was too too much! I must admit my images of Budapest are from books I read set during World War II and it all conjured up rather gray, drab images. Your posts have brightly colored a beautiful city that I will add to my list of “wish I could go there!” spots. Could I be your sister?
I admire your adventurous spirit so much! I am enjoying the vicarous tour of Budapest through your eyes and words. Have a wonderful time with your sister!
I’d love to be in that craft market with you. I’d have purchased those whistles, too. Love the man who sold them to you. Hope he sees his picture here.
Magic – it appears there’s no other word! I was clearing out a pile of stuff from a back corner of my art table yesterday and came across a tiny (2×3.5″) folder of 24 photos from Budapest. It looks to be at least 60 or 70 years old. It was mixed in with several of the same type from Normandy and Paris. I remembered one of our library patrons had gifted these to me. I would love for you to have it to use in your travel journal if you’d like to. Just let me know once you’re back and I’ll send it down the coast to Moss Cottage.
Love the daily reports and the shared magic!
Erin in Morro Bay
Magic – it appears there’s no other word! I was clearing out a pile of stuff from a back corner of my art table yesterday and came across a tiny (2×3.5″) folder of 24 photos from Budapest. It looks to be at least 60 or 70 years old. It was mixed in with several of the same type from Normandy and Paris. I remembered one of our library patrons had gifted these to me. I would love for you to have it to use in your travel journal if you’d like to. Just let me know once you’re back and I’ll send it down the coast to Moss Cottage.
Love the daily reports and the shared magic!
Erin in Morro Bay
Magic – it appears there’s no other word! I was clearing out a pile of stuff from a back corner of my art table yesterday and came across a tiny (2×3.5″) folder of 24 photos from Budapest. It looks to be at least 60 or 70 years old. It was mixed in with several of the same type from Normandy and Paris. I remembered one of our library patrons had gifted these to me. I would love for you to have it to use in your travel journal if you’d like to. Just let me know once you’re back and I’ll send it down the coast to Moss Cottage.
Love the daily reports and the shared magic!
Erin in Morro Bay
Beauty everywhere! Lucky you 🙂 No doubt you’ll have loads of fun when your sister arrives.
Greetings Moss Cottage, Budapest sounds wonderful another journey I can not wait to see where we go next for the day. The women with hat really intriged me so.(spell)Your whistles come play me a song.:) Are there any good recipes on your travels for hungarian beef gouloush? In hopes.
Have a wonderful day:):)
Always,
Linda
This is all way beyond my comprehension as I have never been to Europe but it looks wonderful and I am so happy for you. I look forward to each post and I dream of maybe one day being able to travel. All of those beautiful craft items were beyond wonderful and, of course, the food looks great. Thanks for being the wonderful person that you are and taking us on this wonderful journey.
Wow, I’m blown away by everything, seen through your eyes. My Hungarian grandmother used to make strudel on our dining room table in the 1950s. How I’m wishing for a piece for breakfast this morning. Thanks, as always, for sharing your excellent adventure with all of us. Hope you have a delightful time with your sis. xox
…I’m just going to sit here at the computer and wait for your next post….no no, take your time…..
I’m excited for your sister to arrive! Is that silly of me? Thank you for the words of encouragement. I love that green satchel with the gold embroidery and the geometric jars! What fun you’re having! Thank goodness for your white haired rescuer.
Mary Ann, you take me to a happy place. 🙂
I’ve been traveling myself and had limited access to internet, so how lovely to come home and read all about your recent journey. Can’t wait until the two of you are together and see all the shenanigans. In the meantime, stay off the tracks! 🙂
Oh thank you for all the BEAUTIFUL pictures and the virtual tour, I am enjoying this thoroughly! I love the architecture, the food and the people keep it coming, makes me want to learn the language and jump on a jet!!!
liza – ive tried the no gas version, but it is still mineral water minus the bubbles if that makes sense…? well, then again, i cant tell the difference between duck & pork apparently so whaddooiknow? ha ha ha ha
I’d SO love to have some of that bobbin lace. fun
OMG! The crafts! The food! The scenery! Thanks for sharing! (I know, too many exclamation marks, but…!!!!!!!) 😀
omg i want both of those bags in your photo!!! the green one and the pink and white one!!! everything is soo beautiful, wish i was with you, so glad Carol is coming to share in your wonderful journey!
Isn’t it amazing how life seems to put us in just the right spot, at just the right time, and gives us just the right experiences when our hearts and minds need them. I am blown away by the architecture most of all. That saleslady back in Kansas sure knew what she was talking about. And you have spoiled all of So Much with these great posts. Thank you for taking the time to share! It is like being there. Carry on…
I felt the same way this summer in Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania — Eastern Europe where have you been all my life? Indeed! Now I have to add Budapest and you will have to hop over to the Baltics — try to go at Midsummer if you can for the crazy festivities!
This last post made me salivate for those tastes and smells again… I am loving living this through you Mary Ann! Thank you!
Loving your images, Mary Ann!! About the mineral water….I remember that, they serve it all over Europe in fine coffee shops. I think you can request without gas- Keine gas! Or in Italien sin gass!
I am LOVING your travelogue! Not only are your pictures amazing, your captions are poetry. I’m sending links to all my friends. Thank you!
Yes, what a wonderful day! Yes, I believe it! and Yes, it is awesome! And thank you for the RIVER!!! How BLUE is that Danube! WOW!
Such glorious exhilarating commentary. Just the other day .. those cream cakes. You glanced away for a moment. When you came back for the next bite … hmmm a little bit it missing. You gave the idea up quickly .. I mean … it was me. right there. right beside you. enjoying the moment. and the cake. yum. Donna
You are convincing me… if only from your photographs of strudel, beer, and crafts. I want to go to there.!
If I remember it right I think the rolled dough with cinnamon and sugar is called kurtoskalac. You and Carol should try it…it’s actually good.
Budapest has been on my wish list for a long time…reading about your adventures makes me think I should start shopping for a ticket! Thanks for sharing your adventures.
PS — I love the sweet man with the whistles happy eyes! and the wonderful lady who pulled you away from the tram tracks (oh my gosh)!!! I can see from your pictures how you might have been thinking about cream cakes though …
Oh Mary Ann, you seem to be in a whole different world … a fairytale land. How gorgeous and stunningly amazing!! How I do wish someday that I might visit that wonderous place! Thank you for offering special badges of courage!! I am so happy for you to be able to be there!
OMG, I’m so lusting after that embossed pale blue bag. Too gorgeous. What a wonderful journey.