We are taking the day off from hustling up and down the Cihangir hilltop. Sister woke up with a brilliant idea to go sit at Cuppa and work in our journals. So here we sit surrounded by grubbers and chatters. How divine. I’m sipping my 2nd iced latte and just finished a ham & cheese french toast sandwich. I could be in Los Angeles except for the Rose of Sharon trees, the draping vines, tame cats, and all the people speaking Turkish. Digging in. Soaking up the neighborhood. Bliss.
Woke up this morning at 9 am to a bright blue day, blue water as far as the eye can see, sky like faded denim. We rearranged the patio furniture in a more pleasing configuration and lazed about till noon.
Made the acquaintance of 2 fine gentlemen from Montreal sitting at a table across from us. Mercan Dede and Jarret. They engaged us in a conversation about our journals and were very curious. I let them look through mine and stood chatting at their table for awhile. Mercan Dede (turkish) mentioned he was here in Istanbul with his band and handed me a cd on his way out the door. I thanked him. Music to journal by later. An entirely delightful encounter.
I loved the 800 cd so much a few days later we went into a music store and a knowledgeable clerk led me to the Mercan Dede section where I bought 2 more cds: Breath and Su. What an incredible discovery. The nay is an instrument I’d never heard of, but now that I’ve heard it played before I don’t have words to describe how evocative and deep it is. I’ve added the music to my sidebar along with a video down below.
On our way home we stopped at the mosque down the street from our apartment. Closed, but we peered in the windows and saw the whole place filled with light from its large south facing windows. Dappled tile and chandeliers warm with the sun. There is a tiny park with an overlook here. Jaw dropping views. We’re getting used to these, but each one still impresses. We sit on a bench and watch the boats go by. A leisurely day of small adventures.
In the evening we walked a short distance from the apartment to Kat 5 a splendid rooftop bar and restaurant. 5 floors up by vintage elevator then a spiral wooden staircase up to the roof. Somehow we got in without reservations. Scenic doesn’t begin to describe the navy water of the Bosphorus, twilight sky, and the Boğaziçi Köprüsü suspension bridge whose lights change colors every few minutes. “Look,” we tell each other, “ASIA!”
Far across the water the white buildings with their amber lights are twinkling. A whole other Istanbul to explore.
That music is fantastic! So unique. And this looks like an absolutely amazing day.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for introducing me to Mercan Dede….I love that music. I gotta have me some of that when I’m in the studio.
Wow you guys really know how to do coffee! Thanks for sharing your adventures in Turkey with us
hey there miss violet cadburry,
i make my own visual journals with 140 lb. hotpress watercolor paper.
the bosphorus is sparkling blue and although ive read its polluted you cant tell by looking at it. nary a smell – other than salty sea water rising from its depths.
the streets were certainly not trashy, but neither were they pristine. any city thats over 2000 years old is gonna have some wear and tear. ha ha ha
i saw some graffiti, but not much compared to other places.
I’m supremely enjoying your blog entries and it’s bringing back wonderful memories of that country.
I think Mercan Dede would look smashing in a whirling dervish ensemble! Jarrett, on the other hand….Loving the photos and commentary. I am surprised at how clean the streets are, was there any trash, grafitti, dog do-do, etc.? What does the Bosphorus smell like? Does it glow at night? P.S. what kind of book do you use for visual journals, I bought a blankety-blank book from Barney’s Nobility and the paper curls like my mother-in-law’s talon fingernails!!!! I am using acrylic paint very timidly. THX!
I really am enjoying seeing your pictures and journal pages and reading about your trip to Turkey. It makes me want to go to a place I never dreamed I would be interested in going too. Thanks
Moss Cottage How Magical this all is for you and your sister. You are so blessed to have a sister to travel with let alone you both are so in sinc with one another your journals are well cant think of anything but wonderful and the stories like your walking with you on these wonderful journies taking in whats all around for us to see.I also envy your closesness to your sister its a blessing we all should have for our lives. Im so happy and thankful you have gone on this journey and thank you for taking me along I cant wait for a new day to see what is next!!!
Have a great day My Moss cottage and tell your sis to please show some of her pages?
Always,
xoxo,
Linda
Oh how I envy you! I’ve read back, back, back on your blog and I just love everything you’ve done. I am especially envious of your creative space! I have an entire bedroom that I use and last night when I went in there (after spending several hours looking at your blog) I was disappointed when to see that my space isn’t nearly as creative as yours. I also envy your travels and having a sister to do it with.
Anyway, I read you daily and I just love your blog!!
What beautiful and haunting music! And your journal just looks delicious. Thank you so much for sharing with us. Do you fill it mostly while you are there or when you return?
yowza! I don’t often cry at blog posts, because it’s so dumb.
but, this…
Your blog is AMAZING! I can’t wait every morning to see what’s posted. I only hope that someday I will be able to journal half as well as you do. I hope to sign up for your “Remains of the Day” soon to get started!!!
what a surprise and delight the music turned out to be! a bit of hip-hop with wonderful new instruments….the journal is inspiring me to get back to ROD, now if i can only find your videos again. i look forward to the next post!
What a amazing experience. I think that is just about the coolest travel tale have ever heard. The music is haunting and delightful, a beautiful feast for the soul and heart. I can’t get over the photos and of course your journal…serious journal envy going on as well as wanting to visit Turkey. I am hanging on every word. I feel like one of the mosslings in your class room where we all sit around in a circle and you share a story and we get to look at the pictures and oooohhhhh and ahhhhhh at all of them. I am totally absorbing your experiences.
Oooooo, and what a looker that Mercan fellow is! I think so anyway. Great music-a little like turkish rap, with sufi angels. I was wondering, MA, what those white “thingies” are in the pic of the mosque, near the scooter – they look like bathtubs. Looking forward to further travelogues – thanks!
I love the music! Thanks for introducing me to him.
Delightful encounter indeed!
You girls are so fortunate to have one another to travel with….it’s so amazing to have one of “like mindedness” not wanting you to be on their prescribed itinerary….
Aren’t the most “ordinary” people extraordinary when taken out of one’s own environ?
I swoon with delight seeing your “travelogues” both in blog form and in journal form….
Can’t you convince your sister to share more of hers? Does she have no blog?
And can I not convince you to do an in person workshop here in L.A. (perhaps at my own large studio in the O.C.? Just sayin’)
I’ve decided I want to come back as you in another life! Love they yummy journal. I also love all the pictures of the cats. No matter where we are, I stop to talk to or pet animals. My hubby always says, you act like you’ve never seen a dog before and we have four at home. I just love the little guy grabbing the tail. Hugs