The Sirens

April 19, 2008
Today was our last day with beloved Agnes at Hotel Floridiana in Amalfi. We checked out early, but left our bags behind to pick up along with the car later. Off we went to catch the 10:45 ferry over to Positano. The views all along the coast were straight out of a movie. The sunny day turned the sea from gunmetal grey to glowing turquoise light.
Off in the distance the Li Galli islands are visible. Here is where, Homer tells us, the Sirens called out to Ulysses, tempting him on his way back home. They tempt me now. If I go there what will I see?

The mountains drop sharply into the water. So dramatic! All of the villas, shops, churches stacked up wherever they could find room. Blue lagoons, tiny beaches, and remnants of stone guard towers can be seen up and down the coast. Leftover treasure from Amalfi's seafaring republic. We passed Praiano. Oh, I want to know – which villa is ours?!

We rode the ferry for 30 minutes to reach Positano. The buildings here are brightly colored. The steep hillsides are shades of sherbet – everywhere cubes of yellow, deep orange, white, pinkish, russet, apricot, peach. Beautiful blocks one on top of the other. Stacked high. The candy store of the Amalfi Coast.

Dogs trotted up and down the beach, cats too – more carefully of course.

We had climbed about halfway when I spotted Le Sirenuse. Having heard Samantha Brown rave about it on her travel show I wanted to see for myself. It was an opulent hotel! Rich. I felt like a bull in a china shop. We sat on a spectacular poolside terrace overlooking the endlessly blue sea.

The white of the building against the blue water and sherbet houses was BEAUTIFUL. Another I-am-in-a-movie-starring-me moment. 2 drinks were ordered. For Sister, the house drink: Le Sirenuse, for me freshly squeezed lemonade with its own little pot of syrup sweetener.

We sat and sipped and eavesdropped on an old fellow of about 80 spin tales of intrigue and adventure to an eager reporter who jotted down notes and leaned in close. My mind drifted to things real and imagined. Who was this fellow? From snippets of conversation I have it narrowed down to one of two professions: photographer or spy. I MUST know.