April 24, 2008 1 pm ish Thursday
Today I have stayed behind to enjoy “doing nothing” at this enchanting villa by the sea. Carol went for a little hike earlier up more stairs and around a cliff. My calves were still complaining from yesterday’s climb down the world’s longest steepest staircase so I hung back to sit in the sunshine, read, write, and think. I could sit and stare out a the bright vast horizon and open luminous sea for years and years, centuries, and not get tired of the view. It’s good to sit and breathe in lungfuls of lemony air. Soon we will go into town for some gelato and a stroll down to the lower part of Praiano – Vettica Maggiore.
April 24, 2008 6:40 pm
Mama Mia! In the afternoon Sister and I headed down to San Genaro, the church with the majolica tile floors.
This little neighborhood church is my favorite so far and today there were roses, amaryllis, iris, calla lily, and other flowers decorating all of the altars.
From here we decided to explore the walkways leading to the sea. 300 steps down and back. The walk down was exceptionally fabulous and we passed many vegetable gardens.
One in particular being tended as we strolled by on a walkway just above.
A handsome older fellow with white hair and skin browned by the sun, digging in espresso-colored earth. We stood above him and could smell the soil. So fertile! This is the land of the mighty fig, olive, and lemon. All growing there in the the dark loamy earth on terraces overlooking the blue blue sea. I imagine the contentedness a gardner in the Amalfi Coast must feel being a steward of land as magical and wonderous as this!
We encountered only 1 couple (toting a baby buggy!) on the long way down to the tiny beach and sea wall. There were many spots to rest and take in the quiet blustery day. I tried not to think of the climb back up. Sister scouted the path ahead and kept calling back, “We’re almost there! Only a few more stairs! You can do it!” Without a personal coach I would have given up after the first 100 steps. At last we reached the bottom and unbelievably a fine restaurant spread out on a terrace above the sea wall. We paused for lemon sodas overlooking wild crashing turquoise water.